Chisinau, pronounced kish-in-or with emphasis on the first syllable, is the least visited capital in Europe.
It should be visited a lot more.
Like Rome, Chisinau is built on 7 hills. A bronze Capitoline Wolf suckling Romulus and Remus stands before the National History Museum.
Pushkin was exiled here for his liberal views by Czar Alexander I 1820 - 1823, during which time he wrote The Prisoner of the Caucasus and The Fountain of Bakhchisaray. He is commemorated by a bust in the Central Park, a full statue having been unaffordable.
While the infographic at the airport is a little disconcerting - depicting cutthroat razors, axes and baseball bats as things that can’t be taken on a plane - the idea that Moldova is dangerous is incorrect.
It is quiet, modest and beautiful. I walked the streets and city parks in the day and night without harassment.
Lying north of the Carpathians, Moldova has no mountains but is very hilly. This, its famously rich black soil and moderate climate make it an exceptional agricultural producer.
Its wines are an absolute treat. Varietals and methods are yet to be fully homogenised and hopefully won’t be. It is home to the world’s largest cellar at Mileștii Mici, a 200km tunnel, about half of which is used. Cellar doors can be found throughout the capital.
I had one of the best steak and bottle of red meals I’ve ever had here.
If you love wine, bucolic settings and history Moldova is an absolute must.
