Explore Brazil from the spectacular Iguazu Falls and colonial Paraty to Ilha Grande and the vibrant Rio de Janeiro
Foz de Iguazú
The Brazilian equivalent of Argentina’s Iguazu, Foz de Iguazu is the gateway to this side of the falls. To Brazil’s credit, it has far less touristy tack than its Argentinian sibling.
The Brazilian side of the falls provides the more sweeping vista. Here is where you get the panoramic front-on photographs, the iconic views of the cascading water and gorges.
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This should not be read in a reductive way. You really need to see the falls from both sides. Indeed, on balance I probably prefer the Argentine experience, with its raised pathways and platforms that wind through the waterways and take you within meters of where they plunge into the breach.
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A good to know is that from Foz de Iguazu it is very easy to cross the border into Paraguay, where electronic and other goods can be purchased cheaply. Many Brazilians do their shopping this way.
Paraty and Ilha Grande
Paraty (PARA-tee) on the Atlantic coast was a major centre of the Portuguese Empire in South America. Gold and silver poured out through its port en route to Lisbon and black African slaves poured in.
It is estimated that over 4 million were brought to Brazil, dwarfing the ~500,000 souls sent to the US. Brazil's cultural and social mix is profoundly influenced and shaped by Afro-Brazilians.
Paraty’s cobblestone streets are too rough and tumble for cars and this, along with its 17th century Portuguese colonial architecture, clear turquoise and emerald waters, and backdrop of rainforest covered mountains, make it a delightful place to take a walk and browse shops.
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A couple of hours north of Paraty by bus and boat is Ilha Grande, a rain forest covered volcanic island that rises out of the sea. Its coastline is rugged with lots of bays and inlets.
Both Paraty and Ilhe Grande offer scuba and snorkeling. The dive sites are nice enough if you don’t hold them to the standard of Australia’s Great Barrier Reef or Indonesia’s Raja Ampat.
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Rio de Janeiro
I was lucky enough to reach Rio de Janeiro in time for Brazil’s opening Football World Cup match against Morocco. Copacabana Beach was one huge party! What an atmosphere! Brazilians are probably as good at celebrating as they are at football - ie, world leaders. If they make the tournament final, what a place it will be.
Its easy to get caught up in the enthusiasm. I bought a Brazilian national team jersey, opting for a vintage cotton number because I don’t like synthetics. It’s blue and goes well with jeans. And I am quietly confident my investment will pay off.
There are great restaurants and bars in Rio, both generally and, especially in Ipanema, at the high end.
It is also one of those cities that truly lends itself to a scenic helicopter flight.
Guide and Insights
Recommendations
- Try to see more than one area in Rio - eg, do a walking tour of the old centre, stay in Copacabana and go out for dinner in Ipanema.
- Take a helicopter flight over Rio. If you only ever do this in one city, this is the place.
- From Fox de Iguazu, cross the border into Paraguay to shop like a Brazilian for cheap electrical and other goods.
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Practical Tips
- The best time to go for vibrant city life is the summer December to March.
- The best time to go for flora and fauna is the dry season July to November.