I am a big believer in Anthony Bourdain’s various encouragements for travellers to go to bars and drink beer with locals.
And so it was in Danshube, Tajikistan.
There, only a day or 2 before the latest Shanghai Cooperation Organisation meeting of Heads of State, enormous images of the President everywhere, Russian Federation flags flying alongside Tajikistani, rose gardens at national monuments brought up to their most magnificent, amidst grand new building works somewhat reminiscent of Ashgabat, the locals I spoke to under that ‘on tour’ anonymity that the drinking of beer confers, opined about their government’s spending priorities.
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I really like the Tajikistanis. People are friendly and interesting. The women are stunningly beautiful. It is from the Pamir that those incredible indigo eyes come from.
I think there is something to be said for a period of authoritarian rule to achieve a Great Leap Forward. Particularly, a hundred years or so ago when the experience of European colonisation still presented an existential threat to undeveloped societies.
But it’s a fraught road. There are few examples where power hasn’t corrupted those in power and has been released, job done, voluntarily.
The National Museum of Antiquities is exquisite!
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Tajikistan is 93% mountainous. I experienced some of it in the northwest of the country near the beautiful turquoise Iskander Kul. Iskander is the Persian word for Alexander and Kul means lake.
I intend to come back and hike in the Pamir. One day. That list is getting rather long.
The Amu Dariya, known in Alexander’s time as the Oxus, marks the border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan. It’s historical romance and Bourdain’s invocation inspired in me a poem. Probably crap, but what the hell!
Sad Oxus
Oh sad Oxus, sad Amu Dariya!
Mighty river of antiquity.
Born a torrent from snow and glacier!
Navigable from Aral to the foot of the Partir.
Now bled slowly of your strength,
Far from your home and birthright!
Reduced to a trickle, short of your length,
Exhausted in the desert sands, no obsequy or rite.