Georgia is extraordinary!
A mountainous country spanning the greater and lesser Caucasus, it is a visual feast. These mountains are still growing - the land splits apart like wounds from a slashing knife, as it is punctured by upwards thrusting black granite.
Like the rest of the Caucasus, Georgia is highly valuable and strategically located. Consequently, it has been contested constantly by Ottomans, Persians, Mongols and Russians.
This is reflected in its language - ‘gamarjoba’ the Georgian word for ‘hello’ derives from ‘gamarjveba’ which means ‘victory’.
And in the way people have lived - whole cities built into cave complexes and fortified churches and fortresses perched precariously atop steep cliffs and mountain precipices.
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Georgian culture is one of the world’s richest. Nikoloz Baratshovili, the Georgian Byron, wrote Merani (Pegasus) and reading it gives me goosebumps:
It runs; it flies; it bears me on; it heeds no trail nor spoor;
A raven black behind me croaks with ominous eyes of doom;
Speed thee on and onward fly with a gallop that knoweth no bound,
Fling to the winds my stormy thoughts in raging darkness found.
Georgia has more UNESCO intangible cultural heritage listings than you can poke a stick at. These include the Georgian language (which forms its own unique linguistic group) and its distinctive script, Georgian polyphonic singing (a form of vocal acappella harmonising), and traditional Georgian wine making techniques.
Wine is religion here. Dating back 8000 years, Georgia is the cradle of wine making. Traditional techniques involve fermentation in clay pots buried in the ground using only the natural yeast that occurs in the grape skin.
The white wine this produces is called amber wine due to its colour, now a protected GI. It’s different but I like it.
The detritus from the process is used to make chacha, a sort of Georgian grappa that - take it from me - will blow your goddamned head off.
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Georgia has been a polity since the 4th century BCE.
Ancient Greek mythology locates the Golden Fleece sought by Jason and the Argonauts here when it was the Kingdom of Colchis in the 2nd century BCE. The Romans found hot springs and built bath houses in the 1st century CE in the area of the capital Tbilisi.
Tbilisi was established in the 5th century CE by Vahktang I Gorgasali who was said to stand 7 feet tall and wear a wolf’s skull and pelt over his head. I can’t help but think he must be the inspiration for the Kurgen in Russell Mulcahy’s Highlander.
The peak of Georgian influence is associated with the 29 year reign of Tamar, the first female ruler of Georgia in the 12th century. At this time its territory extended over large parts of Azerbaijan, Armenia, eastern Turkey, and northern Iran.
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Like the rest of the Caucasus, stray dogs are everywhere. In the main centres at least the authorities pick them up, vaccinate and desex them before returning them to the street. They crave some affection. If I had the money I would establish a shelter and incentivise the government to bring the dogs by offering to refund their veterinary costs.
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Tbilisi hosts 33% of the 4 million Georgian population. The 12th century city wall and old city is delightful. Modern architecture such as the Bridge of Peace is impressive and not out of place.
Heading north, the Pankisi Valley - maligned as a harbour for terrorists - is home to Chechen Georgians. One day, one of them, Nazy, quit her job as a city lawyer in Tbilisi and returned home with a mission to change perceptions through travel and tourism. She established Nazy’s Guest House which is a must, either to stay or stop by for a beautiful fresh lunch. She also mentors local school children on embracing their cultural heritage and to recognise its economic potential.
At Mtskheta, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral dating from the 4th century is perhaps the most impressive Orthodox Church I’ve been in, not for grandness but for its asymmetry and layers of history. Amongst its claimed relics are the cloak that Jesus wore before he was put on the cross, a fragment of the true cross and a foot-bone of one of the disciples. Vakhtang I is buried here.
Nearby, Jvari church overlooks the confluence of the Kura and Aragvi rivers. It is stunning.
Heading further north, Gori - birthplace of Stalin - is worth a stop. The Stalin Museum is unchanged since the 60s. Some consider it a negative but I find the drab period artefacts, internal features and atmosphere perfect for the subject matter. Be more adventurous than the tick-a-box tours and spend some time wandering around town with a guide.
At Stepantsminda by the Russian border it gets very mountainous indeed. Here you can find the magnificent Gergeti Trinity Church which sits at 2200m, backed by a 4,800m peak. Nearby ski fields get up to 3,500m.
Sadly, Georgia has a few political problems at the moment as the country decides whether it wants to go back to being a glove puppet of Russian imperialism or not. I have faith in its culture and people.
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