Sofia has very old bones.
They are proudly (and pleasingly) exposed and incorporated within new development works throughout the city. An amphitheater not much smaller than the Coliseum forms the foundation and lower floors of a luxury hotel. It is stunning.
There are many cultural layers here. The modern - Bulgaria’s major cultural institutions, restaurants, cafes and bars - sits within and atop a mix of Roman, early Christian, Byzantine, Orthodox, and Ottoman structures, along with the usual suspects of belle-époque elegance.
At the time of the Roman and Byzantine empires, the city was called Serdica, the capital of Dacia. Constantine called it his Rome. Justinian was very fond of it too.
There isn’t much fine dining in Bulgaria. But Sofia is one of those places where you’re rewarded by talking to your waiter to find good local dishes and wine.
Bulgaria was liberated from Ottoman rule by a Christian coalition led by Alexander II of Russia. This is commemorated in a number of stunning monuments and buildings, most notably Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.
Bulgarian people are very friendly and welcoming. Well incorporated within Europe now, but not subject to the ills of mass tourism, they like showing their country to visitors.
